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Friday, May 1, 2026

Splicing Hollow Core Braid

 

Key Topics Covered in This Article

  • Splicing hollow core braided fishing line
  • Loop-to-loop connections and wind-on leaders
  • Tools and techniques for clean splices
  • Strength retention and knotless connections
  • Applications in offshore and big game fishing


In this video, Pauly Luwaii breaks down one of the cleanest, strongest ways to rig an 80 wide big-game reel: splicing your monofilament top-shot directly into hollow core braid. If you’re still tying bulky knots to connect braid to mono, this is why the hollow core splice is such a game changer—especially when you’re targeting fish that expose every weak link in your system.




This isn’t “rigging for Instagram.” This is rigging for the moment a fish is dumping line, the drag is heavy, the rod is pinned, and your connection is the only thing between you and a heartbreak story. When you’re fishing 80 wides for tuna, marlin, swordfish, or any true big-game scenario, you don’t get to hide mistakes. That’s why this splice method is such a valuable skill to learn—and why you’ll see serious crews and experienced captains build their systems around it.

๐ŸŒŠ WHAT PAULY SHOWS IN THIS VIDEO
Pauly keeps it practical and focused. He shows:

✅ How to insert mono into hollow core (the splice method)
✅ How to create a smooth, low-profile connection that runs through guides better
✅ Why this connection is stronger and more reliable than many knot options
✅ How this helps your top-shot hold up when a fish is dumping line and you’re under heavy drag

If you’re newer to hollow core, the “magic” is that the braid is hollow like a sleeve. When mono is inserted inside it, the braid grips it using a finger-trap effect. Under tension, it tightens even more. Done correctly, it’s incredibly secure and very streamlined.

๐ŸŽฏ WHY HOLLOW CORE + MONO TOP-SHOT MATTERS ON 80W REELS
An 80 wide isn’t a casual setup. It’s built for pressure. When you’re fishing heavy drag and big baits, you want a system that behaves predictably under load. A hollow core splice helps you get there.

Here’s what changes immediately:

  1. No big knot bump going through guides
    Knots work, but big knots are bulky. They click through rollers, slap through guides, and can hang up at the wrong time. A proper splice is low profile and smooth, which means it feeds cleaner, especially if you’re clearing the deck, repositioning, or winding a fish close.

  2. Less chance of failure at the connection under heavy load
    Knot strength can vary a lot based on how it was tied, how it cinched, if it burned, and what kind of mono you used. Splices—when done right—are extremely consistent. Under heavy drag, consistency matters just as much as raw strength.

  3. Cleaner line lay + better capacity on the spool
    On big reels, everything builds on everything. A bulky knot can create a high spot, which can cause uneven line lay, especially after long fights. Hollow core backing also gives you better capacity due to the smaller diameter, and the splice connection doesn’t add a big “lump” in the middle of the spool.

  4. A big-game system you can trust when it’s go-time
    Confidence matters. When you know your connection is clean and strong, you fish better. You push when you need to push. You don’t baby the fish because you’re worried about a knot.

๐Ÿง  WHY NOT JUST RUN STRAIGHT MONO?
A lot of anglers grew up on straight mono, and it still works. But braid backing + mono top-shot became popular for real reasons:

๐Ÿ“Œ Braid gives you massive capacity and strength for its diameter
๐Ÿ“Œ Mono gives you stretch, shock absorption, and better handling on deck
๐Ÿ“Œ Together you get the best of both worlds

The mono top-shot acts like a built-in buffer. Big fish surge. Boats rise and fall. Hooks shake. The stretch helps keep pressure steady and reduces pulled hooks. The braid underneath gives you the yardage and strength to survive long runs and deep battles.

๐Ÿ”ง WHAT MAKES THE SPLICE METHOD DIFFERENT FROM A KNOT?
Knots are external connections. They create a “hard point” where stress concentrates. Under heavy load, any weakness—imperfect cinch, friction damage, tag end slippage—can show up fast.

A splice is different. It’s an internal connection where the braid grips the mono over a long insertion length. Instead of one tight bend doing all the work, the load is distributed along that splice section. That’s why it’s such a reliable connection for heavy tackle.

Also, from a practical standpoint, the splice doesn’t catch in guides the way a knot can. That might sound like a minor detail until you’re in a real fight and you need smooth, uninterrupted line travel.

⚔️ WHEN THIS REALLY PAYS OFF
If you only ever fish smaller species, you might not notice the difference. But the moment you’re fishing true big game, the splice starts paying off immediately:

๐ŸŸ Long runs where the fish is dumping line fast
⚓ Heavy drag settings where everything is under max strain
๐ŸŒŠ Rough conditions where the boat is lifting and dropping your pressure
๐Ÿ›ฅ️ Tight maneuvering where you’re winding and repositioning constantly
๐ŸŽฃ Battles where the connection ends up near the guides more than once

This is exactly where knots can become a liability, not because they’re “bad,” but because they’re bulkier, more variable, and more prone to imperfect execution.

๐Ÿงต TOP-SHOT LENGTH: WHY IT’S A REAL DECISION
There’s no one perfect top-shot length. What you choose depends on:

✅ Target species (tuna vs marlin vs swords)
✅ Fishing style (trolling, chunking, live bait, kite, deep drop)
✅ How much stretch you want
✅ How much abrasion resistance you need
✅ Your crew’s preferences for handling and leadering

Shorter top-shots give you more direct connection and maximize braid capacity. Longer top-shots give you more stretch and a larger “working section” of mono that can take abrasion and sun exposure before you need to replace it.

That’s why this is such a good comment question: people run wildly different lengths based on what they’re doing, and it’s useful for everyone to compare.

๐Ÿ”ฅ SMALL DETAILS THAT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE
Even if you don’t consider yourself a “rigging nerd,” the small details matter when you’re splicing and building big-game setups:

✅ Keep everything clean and organized (mess leads to mistakes)
✅ Use the right hollow core size for the mono you’re inserting
✅ Make sure your insertion length is long enough for the load you’ll be putting it under
✅ Smooth transitions = better line travel and less wear
✅ Build it the same way every time so your results are consistent

This is why videos like Pauly’s are valuable. You can read about this stuff all day, but watching someone do it cleanly makes it click.

๐ŸŽฅ WHO THIS VIDEO IS FOR
If you’re running 80 wides—or moving toward that class of gear—this is a foundational rigging skill. It’s for:

๐ŸŽฃ Tuna guys who want a system that holds under heavy drag
๐Ÿงฟ Marlin anglers who want clean line travel and solid connections
⚔️ Swordfish crews that need reliability when the bite finally happens
๐Ÿ›ฅ️ Anyone building serious offshore tackle and wanting to eliminate weak links

And even if you don’t fish 80s yet, learning this now makes every future setup easier.

๐Ÿ‘‡ COMMENT BELOW
What are you running for your top-shot length on your 80Ws?
Also—are you splicing hollow core to mono, or still tying knots?

#FishingVesselSpotter #PaulyLuwaii #biggamefishing #hollowcore #topshot #monofilament #80wide #offshorefishing #tuna #marlin #fishingrigging.

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